Wrapping Up (A Thank-You Note)

Well, we're not in New Zealand anymore. In the past week, we sold our Kiwi car (a.k.a. Shadowfax), closed our Kiwi bank account, packed up everything else, and got on the first of four planes. After a 48-hour Wednesday that took us from Christchurch to Auckland to San Francisco to Phoenix, we finally landed in St. Louis... where it's spring, apparently, and my phone works, and everybody drives on the right side of the road for some reason.

I know I haven't written many stories on this blog; that wasn't really the point to begin with. But now that our time as Kiwi wannabes is over, I find myself wishing I could share the whole experience with everyone more fully, and I have no doubt I'll try in many a conversation to come. In all honesty though, this kind of adventure is just one of those things you have to live for yourselves, and I hope my writing, in whatever small way, might help facilitate that for some of you.

To tell you the truth, I've put off writing this post for a few days now, because I'm not quite sure how to just "wrap up" this blog. But it has to end at some point and that point is probably now, so after thinking about it for a while, I've decided on a topic. Instead of a summary that could never even start to encapsulate what these past seven-ish months have been to Alec and me, I want to use this final post to thank the folks who changed our lives along the way. In order of appearance, so to speak:

To John and Val Massam - thank you for welcoming us into your home, and into this incredible country. We were in no way expecting the kind and refreshing hospitality we found during the times we stayed with you, and we are in awe of your generous hearts.

To Karen Avery - we cannot thank you enough for being our fearless leader and solid friend during our time at Lakes Ranch. In every situation we went through together, you showed us the meaning of determination and persistence, and somehow managed to laugh through it all.

To Cousins Kirk and Norma - how blessed we were to have such welcoming and fun-loving relatives in this far-off part of the world. We thoroughly enjoyed being a part of your Ahipara community, and only wish we had been able to spend more time with you. 

To Scott and Jebraun Clifford - Calvary Bible Chapel was our church home away from home, and we are so grateful for the way you and your congregation opened your arms (literal and metaphorical) to us during our time in Rotorua. P.S. Go Packers!

To Rachel Paterson - oh Rachel, what would we have done without you? Our constant hosting teammate, our cinema buddy, our sole dual-island friend... it's no exaggeration to say we'll never forget the times we spent together, good, bad, and ugly. 

To Manu and Elli Deerwood - what fun we had with you two, our fellow newlywed couple! Thank you for all the laughs and all the good conversation. We so enjoyed hanging out with you, and can't wait for more fun times ahead in Europe.

To Aaron Mcleish - we truly couldn't have asked for a better housemate and coworker. You taught us more than you know. You are incredibly skilled at the many, many things you do for Mt. Hutt Retreat. Thank you for your wisdom, generosity, and selfless leadership.

To everyone at All Saints - yours was the most warm and welcoming church congregation we have ever encountered. God has done and continues to do a good work among you. Thank you for embracing us even for the short time we spent with you. 

To Dennis, Daphne, and Julien - it was so much (too much?) fun getting to know you on the Milford Track. Thanks for all the laughs over freeze-dried meals and Time's Up, not to mention the crash course in European culture. Cheers guys!

To Jon and Tess Hicks - the time we spent with you and your family was truly a joy. Thank you for opening your home to us and showing us such a clear picture of Christ in the love you showed us and shared with each other. We pray His blessings on you (and Ava, Cohen, Caleigh, and Judah).

To Kenneth and Justine Irons - how we wish we had met you sooner along our journey! Thank you for one of our most memorable evenings to date, filled with the very best kind of community. We were blessed by your company and deeply touched by your words of wisdom and encouragement.

With much love,

The Genos

Eight LOTR and Narnia Locations Worth Visiting

Posters and TV commercials literally advertise New Zealand as "Middle Earth." And I mean literally in the literal sense. Having lived here for the better part of a year, I would humbly suggest they change the slogan to "Middle Earth and More." The simple fact is New Zealand boasts a significantly more varied and spectacular landscape than even the Lord of the Rings or Narnia movies portray on screen. See my last post for some fairly detailed visual proof.

That said, as avid fans of both franchises (we'll forget the black mark that was The Voyage of the Dawn Treader), my husband and I were blown away by repeated opportunities to step into scenes straight from these films. In fact, for the last 3 months we've been living at Mt. Hutt Retreat, where a big chunk of the LOTR crew stayed during Edoras filming. Not that I'm bragging or anything. Anyway, before I start in on descriptions of the locations promised in the title, let me offer a few bits of advice for any of you hoping to visit said places yourselves.

• You do not need the Lord of the Rings Locations Guidebook by Ian Brodie. It costs $20+ dollars in the tourist shops, so if you're trying to pinch pennies, you can find most of the same info online (this Department of Conservation webpage was particularly helpful). On the other hand, it's a handy souvenir, so if you really want one, consider buying used on Amazon. 
• Most of the LOTR locations listed in the guidebook or elsewhere online aren't really worth your time. Many look quite different without various CGI components, or are completely inaccessible by normal means of transportation, or are fairly unspectacular settings of minor scenes. I won't concern myself with any of those in this post. 
• The myriad movie tours advertised all over the place are nearly all HUGE tourist traps. They literally charge hundreds of dollars for access to locations that are perfectly accessible on your own for free (unless you want to shell out for helicopter trips, which are probably pretty cool). Alec and I found that finding the locations ourselves was half the adventure. 

Now, on to the good stuff (we'll start on the North Island and work our way down):

1. Cair Paravel (Cathedral Cove, Coromandel Peninsula)

Alec and me standing under the transformed "underground tunnel" from Prince Caspian 

Remember that scene from the beginning of Prince Caspian when the four Pevensies are transported from a London underground station to a gorgeous Narnian beach beneath the ruins of Cair Paravel? Well, the magical beach is a real place, complete with clear blue water, white sand, and breathtaking rock formations. Unsurprisingly, Cathedral Cove, as it's known in real life, was a tourist destination long before the Narnia movies. To reach this location, take SH25 up the east side of the Coromandel Peninsula until you see signs for Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove. Keep following signs for Cathedral Cove, which will take you through the small but charming town of Hahei, until it dead-ends at a parking lot. From there, it's about a 30 minute walk to the film location (longer if you take any of the side trails to other beautiful coves along the way). Tip: This is a very popular spot for bus tours, so if you want to avoid the crowds, visit in the early morning (sunrise!) or late evening.

Nearest Town: Hahei
Address: Grange Road South, Hahei 3591

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2. Hobbiton (Alexander Farm, Matamata)

The mill and the Green Dragon as seen from Party Field

Hobbiton is the only entry on this list that isn't free, but for fans of the movies, it's well worth the entrance fee. For $75 NZD (about $65 USD) you get a bus ride to and from the set, an informative tour, plenty of great photo ops, and a complimentary drink (ale, cider, or ginger beer) at the Green Dragon. Tours, which you'll need to book ahead of time, depart from Rotorua (more expensive) and Matamata, but the best and cheapest option if you have a car is to drive yourself to Shire's Rest Café. From Matamata, drive south on Hinuera Road, take a right on Hopkins Road, another right on Puketutu Road, and then a left on Buckland. You'll see signs along the way for the film location. Once you reach Shire's Rest, you can't miss it. Tip: If you can avoid it, don't go during the two weeks on either side of Christmas. Due to increased tourist traffic, they run tours every 10 minutes instead of every half hour, which felt a little rushed.

Nearest Town: Matamata
Address: 501 Buckland Road, Matamata 3472

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3. Mordor/Mt. Doom (Tongariro National Park)

Mt. Ngauruhoe (Mt. Doom) as seen from the beginning of the Tongariro Crossing

If I had to pick the most spectacular location on the list, it would probably have to be this one. Tongariro National Park is a singular place, and the Tongariro Crossing is widely considered the best day hike in New Zealand. You will see some truly magnificent volcanic scenery, the description of which would take up far too much space to go into here. The walk itself is fairly demanding, and will take 5-7 hours depending on your fitness level, but it's completely worth it (and if Frodo and Sam could do it, you can too!). You can find info about the route here, and you'll need to book a shuttle to drive you from the parking lot to the trail head. We used Mountain Shuttle, which charged $30 for transportation and secure all-day parking. Tip: Rain and/or heavy mist is common in this area, especially at higher altitudes, so prepare for it no matter what the weather forecast says.

Nearest Town: Turangi
Address: Ketetahi Car Park, off SH46 (6.5k from SH47; 12.5k from SH1)

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4. Hobbit's Hideaway (Mt. Victoria, Wellington)

"Get off the road!"

Of all the film locations on the list, this one is honestly the least spectacular. BUT it's also one of the most accessible, within walking distance from downtown Wellington and a short drive from Weta Workshop, so why not make a day of it? Plus, it's the site of one of LOTR's more memorable scenes, where Frodo and company hide from a ring wraith under a giant (regrettably CGI) tree. I don't know about you, but it scared the crap out of my 9-year-old self when I first saw it in theaters. To get there, make your way from Wellington to Mt. Victoria via Alexandra Road. The pull-off is a bit tricky to find (helpful maps here and here), but once there you'll see the path is well-marked. Tip: If you have a bit of extra time, walk or drive up to the Mt. Victoria Lookout, with excellent views of the city.

Nearest Town: Mt. Victoria (Wellington)
Address: Hobbit's Hideaway Track, off Alexandra Road, Mt. Victoria 6011 

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5. Weta Workshop (Miramar, Wellington)

A few samples of hobbit feet, available for your viewing pleasure in the Weta Workshop

While not a filming location per se, the Weta Workshop outside of Wellington is well worth a side trip, and in conjunction with a trip to Mt. Victoria (see above) makes for a pleasant LOTR-themed day. Entry to the Weta Cave is free; it's essentially a souped-up gift shop, but also includes displays of some pretty cool props and models used in a bunch of films, including Lord of the Rings and Narnia. You can also watch a short (20 minutes or so) video of the history of Weta, which is fun, and also free. Most of the souvenirs are pretty pricey, but it's the real deal, so follow your heart. If you're really into this kind of thing, you can pay $20 to go on a 45-minute guided tour through the workshop itself. Booking ahead (see here) is recommended. To get there, drive east from Wellington on SH1, exit on Cobham Drive, and follow Miramar Ave and Park Road to Weka Street. Tip: Parking can be hard to find on Weka Street itself, but once you've found the place just park on nearby side street and walk.

Nearest Town: Miramar (Wellington)
Address: 1 Weka Street, Miramar 6022

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6. The Great Battle (Castle Hill/Flock Hill, Canterbury)

The impressive rock formations of Castle Hill 

Probably the most epic of all New Zealand Narnia locations, the Castle Hill area is easy to find and phenomenal to look at. The setting for the battle scene at the end of The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, it's also one of the most popular climbing/bouldering sites (more info here) on the South Island. If you're not really into the climbing scene, it's also a great spot for a picnic. The boulders are very visible from SH 73 between Arthur's Pass and Darfield. There are several parking lots along the road, so just keep your eyes open.

Nearest Town: Darfield (southeast)/Arthur's Pass (northwest)
Address: State Highway 73, Arthur's Pass 7875

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7. Edoras (Mt. Sunday/Mt. Potts Station, Canterbury)

The almost comically epic Mt. Sunday, set against the Southern Alps

The trip to Mt. Sunday, where the LOTR crew built the set for Edoras, capital city of Rohan, was one of my top experiences in New Zealand. The best part? There's nothing there, not a single sign of civilization... it really does feel like Middle Earth. If you want to see the stunning vista for yourself, you can pay a few hundred dollars to take the official tour, or you can drive yourself for free. Up to you (by now you've probably recognized my thinly veiled contempt for overpriced tourist traps). The private owners of the surrounding property have not only posted permission for anyone to walk through to the location, they've gone so far as to build bridges so you don't have to ford several streams on your way up. To access Mt. Sunday, take SH72 to the small town of Mt. Somers. Head northwest on Ashburton Gorge Road, which turns into unpaved (but nicely shingled) Hakatere Potts Road. You'll pass several lakes and eventually follow a river down into the valley, where (assuming you've seen Two Towers) you literally can't miss the film location. There's a convenient parking lot on the left side of the road, and the path up Mt. Sunday is clearly marked. Look for the cairn marking the spot where Eowyn stood during that shot. Tip: There will be some snow visible pretty much any time of year, but for a view even more stunning than the one above, visit when the weather's a bit colder.

Nearest Town: Mt. Somers
Address: Mt. Sunday, Hakatere Potts Road, Ashburton Lakes 7771

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8. Anduin River/The Argonath (Kawerau River/Shotover Gorge)

The spectacularly blue Kawerau River running through Shotover Gorge

Alec and I have joked on numerous occasions about the irony of New Zealand's "scenic drive" signs, since every single drive is scenic, without exception. However, if we had to pick, the road from Fox Glacier Village on the West Coast down to Queenstown probably takes the cake in the most scenic scenic drive competition. The section between Wanaka and Queenstown, the road follows the winding Kawerau river, used in Lord of the Rings as the Anduin River. Unfortunately, you'll have to imagine the giant CGI statues of kings holding their hands out in warning, but the steep cliffs and blue water are as real as it gets. If you're the adventurous type (with a little, er, a lot of extra cash), don't stop with the drive; you can jet boat down the gorge and/or bungy jump at Kiwi classic AJ Hacket Bungy. Tip: The many wineries along the road are some of New Zealand's finest, and nearby historic Arrowtown is well worth a visit.

Nearest Town: Arrowtown
Address: SH6 between Cromwell and Frankton

The Many Faces of New Zealand: A Photo Essay

The following are twenty of my favorite photos from our time here in New Zealand, along with short descriptions. I've arranged them chronologically, rather than by region, but you can find their locations on the the map at the bottom of the post. Enjoy!

1. A storm quickly approaching over Piha Beach, near Auckland

2. A crystal-clear sulphur pond in Whakarewarewa Forest (Rotorua)

3. Californian Coast Redwoods in Whakarewarewa Forest (Rotorua)

4. A rosy dawn as seen from the Putangirua Pinnacles on the Coromandel Peninsula

5. Ninety Mile Beach in Ahipara on Thanksgiving Day (US)

6. Nighttime as seen from Lakes Ranch, with Rotorua city in the background

7. Pastureland near Whakatane in the ever-green Bay of Plenty region

8. Red Crater (front), Mt. Ngauruhoe (center), and Mt. Ruapehu (back) in Tongariro National Park

9. Hilly grazing land in a remote area of the Manawatu-Wanganui region

10. A sailboat on Appletree Bay in Abel Tasman National Park

11. The Canterbury Plains as seen from Mt. Hutt on a snowy summer day

12. Moonrise as seen from Mt. Hutt Retreat

13. Fox Glacier in Westland Tai Putini National Park

14. Sunset over the Tasman Sea as seen from Gillespies Beach

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15. Morning light breaking through the clouds over a farm near Weheka

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16. Staircase Valley as seen from Sutherland Falls in Fjordland National Park

17. The very mist-shrouded Milford Sound in Fjordland National Park

18. New Zealand's most prized commodity grazing on Otago Peninsula, outside Dunedin

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19. The Moeraki Boulders (100% natural phenomenon) on Koekehe Beach

20. Mt. Cook as seen from Lake Pukaki, near the town of Twizel

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Living in New Zealand Part 4: Hitting the Sack

Behold, the promised follow-up article to my last post on getting around New Zealand, which focused on methods of transportation. This time, the spotlight's on places to stay during your travels. Depending on your budget, there is a wide range of options to choose from; in keeping with the travel-on-the-cheap spirit of this blog, I'll stick to reality and steer clear of the 4-star hotel side of things. The good news is:

Hitting the Sack...

On the road (and on a budget) is easier in New Zealand than just about anywhere. This country is insanely welcoming to foreigners and quite accustomed to the young-and-penniless crowd. As such, you can stay just about anywhere for dirt cheap––or even for free! Read on for a list of affordable accommodation options, roughly in order from most to least expensive. Note: all prices in USD, and per person unless otherwise indicated.

1. Airbnb

If you haven't heard of Airbnb, it's high time you do. Essentially an online listing site for folks looking to rent extra space in their homes, it's chock full of relatively inexpensive places to stay for a night, a week, or longer. 

Upsides: Airbnb hosts are by and large incredibly welcoming and helpful. Many of them will cook for you, show you around the area, and more. You'll get lots of amenities (laundry, wifi, breakfast, TV, etc.) at little to no extra cost. Plus it's just nice to stay in an actual house for a change. 

Downsides: You can find some great deals, but they're usually still pricier than other options. Advance booking is generally required. Also, if you can't handle sharing space with strangers, this isn't for you. Then again, traveling cheaply might not be for you either. 

Price Range: Technically $10 and up, but more realistically $30-60 (no charge for an extra person though, so this is a great option if you're traveling with a buddy).  

Our Airbnb host helped us find...

...the one and only Weta Workshop!

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2. Backpackers

Known as hostels to the rest of the world, Kiwi "backpackers" are affectionately named after their most popular customers. You're probably already familiar with this concept (and if not, I wrote a whole post about them a while back), so I'll skip the details and jump right to the cost.

Price Range: $20-25 for a shared room; $40-50 for private.

3. Holiday Parks

If you haven't heard of Holiday Parks, it's ok, because they're not a thing in America (or pretty much anywhere else other than down under). But they should be, because they're awesome. Basically, they're privately-run campgrounds, with cabins, bunkrooms, tent sites, RV sites, and the like. The facilities vary park by park, but you can generally count on bathrooms, showers, laundry, and a kitchen. Rankers has put together a fantastic database of Holiday Parks and DOC campsites (see below) here. 

Upsides: It's not hard to find great Holiday Parks in beautiful locations, including those too rural for hostels. You usually won't need a tent, since most have hostel-like accommodation in addition to camping. Many offer activities and equipment rentals at reasonable costs. 

Downsides: Quality varies widely from park to park, so it's important to do your research... reviews are your friend. And even the best Holiday Parks are not resorts, so don't expect luxury, because you won't get it. 

Price Range: Around $10-$15/person for a tent site, and progressively more expensive from there.

We found a nice quiet spot for our tent at the beautiful Smiths Farm Holiday Park outside of Picton.

4. DOC Campgrounds/Huts

New Zealand's DOC (Department of Conservation) runs all of the National and Regional Park land, and it takes its job very seriously. Campgrounds are abundant and kept in good condition, plus they cost next to nothing. The interior of many parks also contain "huts" (think backwoods hostel), which are also pretty cheap and often surprisingly nice. Also, see link above to see all sites on a map.

Upsides: If you're into the outdoors, these campsites are set in some of the most spectacular places in the country. They're also generally quiet and secluded.

Downsides: You need a tent, unless you're staying in a hut. Depending on the location and the time of year, they can fill up pretty quickly. Some require advance booking, some suggest it, and others don't pre-book at all, which is kind of annoying. 

Price Range: Free - $12 per night, depending on facilities and location. 

5. CouchSurfing 

CoachSurfing International Inc. is basically the free version of Airbnb, except you (typically) get a couch instead of a bed. It's a membership-only online community of travelers who basically host each other in their homes free of charge, out of the goodness of their hearts. So basically CouchSurfing and Kiwi Land are a match made in heaven. 

Upsides: Other than the free part, this is a great way to meet locals and have an "authentic" cultural experience. Hosts are usually very open and generous people... a friend of mine even got a free plane ride from her CouchSurfing host! 

Downsides: Again, like with Airbnb, if you need personal space, this isn't for you. It's also not ideal for spouses (the whole sleeping on a couch thing). While CouchSurfing takes safety seriously and requires hosts to provide extensive references, there's still a slight risk you'll end up staying with a creep.

Price Range: Free (except cost of food in some cases).  

6. Freedom Camping

Freedom camping is another ubiquitous Kiwi thing that's not exactly encouraged in the States. Back before The Lord of the Rings broadcast the glories of New Zealand to the world, when travelers were more scarce, you could just set up a tent anywhere not marked private property. Alas, times have changed, and as the rules stand now, you can spend the night on any Conservation land that isn't designated otherwise, with a few catches (see below). Since designated areas are in constant flux, your best bet is to find an information centre and ask where you can camp in the area. If you're the outgoing type, you can also knock on doors to ask if you can pitch a tent on someone's private land. 

Upsides: No cost, often very private, and obviously no bookings necessary.

Downsides: No facilities are provided. Due to increasing numbers of freedom campers, more and more areas are being restricted to self-contained vehicles only, meaning you need an RV with its own toilet. Illegal freedom camping is punishable with a hefty fine.

Cost: Free.

Backroads like this one (minus the fences!) are your best bet for successful freedom camping.

Living in New Zealand Part 3: Getting Around

So jobs are great, and money is, well, a necessity. But no one comes to New Zealand just to work. I'm not trying to brag, but this is Middle Earth for crying out loud. We're talking 100,000 square miles of mountains, forests, plains, and rolling hills (30,000 of which are government-protected)... and only 4.5 million people. We're talking 10,000 miles of coastland, 18 peaks over 10,000 feet, a dozen active volcanoes, the most beautiful fjords outside of Norway, and lots and lots of sheep. It's home to some of the best skiing, bungee jumping, rafting, sky diving, surfing, and pretty much every other adrenaline-pumping activity you've ever heard of (and a bunch you haven't). Not to mention the great wine, great beer, and great chocolate. My point is, you don't want to come here and be stuck in one spot and never get to see the place. Luckily for you:

Getting Around...

Is no problem if you know what you're doing. This is a pretty small country, so you really can see a lot in a comparatively short period of time. Like anywhere, you have options, and which ones you choose will depend largely on your budget and length of stay. I've already touched on getting to New Zealand here, so this post will focus exclusively on intra-New Zealand transportation (post on travel lodging to follow soon). 

By Car

The first decision you need to make when it comes to getting around New Zealand is whether or not you want to buy a vehicle. This may sound like a big and potentially risky investment, but consider all the advantages before you write it off:

• First, a car of your own gives you more freedom than any other form of transportation, hands down. And in a country like New Zealand, where many desirable destinations are pretty remote, that's a big plus. This is not the place to fly into a city and just stay there.
• Second, people are buying and selling used cars all the time down here, so you'll 1) have options when you buy, and 2) have buyers when you want to sell. In fact, if you find a good deal, you can even make money on the flip, which means in the end you're only paying for gas. 
• Third, if you buy a big SUV or a van, you can sleep in it while traveling and thus nix the cost of lodging all together. This is locally known as "Freedom Camping," and it's extremely common in New Zealand. Not for the faint of heart. 

My husband next to our "brand new" 1996 Honda CRV (whose name is Shadowfax). 

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So, should you buy a car? If you'll be in the country longer than a month or so, I'd suggest yes, particularly if you're traveling with a buddy who can split the costs. Compared to the other options, it's cheaper and offers greater flexibility. Plus, you'll get to drive on the wrong side of the road! AND the wrong side of the car! If you decide to go for it, here's the DL:

• To find a vehicle, go to trademe.co.nz, local bidding site and stuff of dreams. Imagine Craig's List and Ebay had a lovechild in New Zealand. That's TradeMe. It's where everybody (even dealers) lists used stuff, including cars. 
• Remember to keep your standards low. You're only gonna own this thing for a matter of months, so who cares if it's a little banged up here and there? Just make sure it has a current Warrant of Fitness (basically an inspection sticker), 'cause you can't drive it without one. 
• After purchasing, be sure to fill out an Acquiring Motor Vehicle form at the Post Office. While there, you can register your vehicle if necessary (piece of cake as long as you have that Warrant of Fitness). More questions? Look here for the answers. 

Note: I do NOT recommend renting a car to anyone planning to stay in the country longer than a few weeks max. Every other option in this list is cheaper, especially if you're under 25. 

By Plane

Somewhat surprisingly, air travel can be one of the least expensive options here in New Zealand. You can commonly find tickets between the 26 different airport cities from $30-60 NZD/$25-$50 USD one-way on grabaseat.co.nz. Yes, it's a great deal, but bear in mind that:

• You can't count on getting a cheap ticket where you want and when you want. So keep your eyes peeled and be willing to plan your trip based on the available destinations. 
• These reduced fares only include a small carry-on, so while they're great for shorter trips, you can't even bring your hiking backpack without paying up for a checked bag. 
• If you fly somewhere, you'll either need to rent a car or figure out other transportation once you get there. Tip: many NZ hostels offer free or cheap airport pickups/drop-offs. 

By Bus

If you decide against buying a car, buses are another intra-New Zealand road travel option. Though they take longer than planes and aren't much cheaper (if at all), they do offer more choices in terms of destinations. In fact, if you are flying somewhere, buses can be a great way to navigate the area once you arrive. Some tips:

• You can buy a pass with one of the major companies (see here and here) that meets your needs and fits your price range, or just go ticket by ticket. 
• Keep an eye out for "specials," as you can save a load of cash; this also applies to various activity, lodging, and meal discounts offered for ticket-holders. 
• Much like hosteling, this can be a great way to meet people, both local and international, many of whom will be young adventurers like yourself. 

By Ferry 

Ok, ok, so ferries aren't really an option for travel in most parts of the country. But they are crucial for one particular trip: the crossing between the North and South Islands. Yes, you can fly, but if you have a vehicle and/or a bunch of luggage, the ferry is your only choice. It's expensive, so if you want to spend time on both islands, plan on making this trip a one-time thing. 

There are only two ferry companies, and the prices/travel times are comparable. Bluebridge is generally considered the nicer of the two, but Interislander has larger ships, meaning it's much slower to sell out. Either way, go ahead and buy your tickets as soon as you can, especially during the busy season (December/January).

The Interislander Ferry making its way up the Tory Channel and back to the North Island.

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By Train

The final option I'll review here (if you want to walk or cycle, good for you) is train travel. It's not cheap, but using the Scenic Rail Pass is supposed to be one of the most beautiful ways to see the country. Unfortunately, the rail system in New Zealand isn't as developed as in, say, Europe, but with various packages you can combine train/bus/ferry travel and get just about anywhere. As with the bus pass, you'll have to option to add discounted lodging and tours at each destination. Note: train travel is limited between May and September (the New Zealand winter). 

P.S. - Check back soon for a post on where to stay during your travels!

Living in New Zealand Part 2: Real Live Jobs

One of the major focuses of this blog has been, and continues to be, affordable travel. If you scroll through the archives, you'll find a 4-part series called Living Abroad (Without Bags of $), and an additional post on financing your time abroad. The goal of the current series on Living in New Zealand is to "get specific" with these general concepts. So, while much the contents are equally applicable in other places (especially Australia, which is very similar to NZ when it comes to visas and job opportunities), keep in mind that not everything will hold true outside of New Zealand.

Real Live Jobs...

Are abundant for Working Holiday visa holders, if you know where to look. The following non-exhaustive list will give a profile of a wide variety of job opportunities, some of which are paid and some of which are not. It's worth mentioning that volunteer positions are often a lot more attractive than they sound, financially speaking. Think of it this way: earning a small wage and spending most (if not all) of it on living expenses isn't much different than working an unpaid job in exchange for food and lodging, especially since lodging can be a real headache. If you find a paid job that also covers lodging, you've really hit the jackpot. Anyway, here goes:

1. Christian Camping

If you have experience working at a camp, or don't but wish you did, you're in luck. New Zealand boasts an extensive camping industry, and given the nature of the work, they're always in need of staff to fill a variety of positions. Unlike in the U.S., most of these camps are open year-round serving school and church groups, so you'll have work for as long as you want it, from a few weeks to a full year (or more if you can extend your visa). To get the gig, go to the Christian Camping New Zealand website, put together a list of camps you're interested in, and send out email inquiries asking about available paid and/or volunteer positions. It's that simple. Even if a camp's website says their staff needs are filled, there's no harm in asking.

Location: Just about anywhere. Find a map of camp locations here.
Duration: Flexible (i.e. you can move around from camp to camp with relative ease).
Job Type: Hosting (activities + cleaning), maintenance, office, kitchen, equestrian.
Compensation: Typically just food and lodging; paid positions exist but are rare.
How to Apply: Informal email inquiries, followed by CVs/references on request.
Tip: You do not have to be a Christian to work for the majority of Christian camps.

Lakes Ranch in Rotorua, one of dozens of Christian camps across New Zealand. 

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2. Fruit Harvesting

New Zealand is known for its agriculture, especially the fast-growing wine industry. As such there is huge demand for "pickers" to harvest and pack fruit and vegetables. Job conditions and accommodation vary widely from place to place, but you can count on finding work throughout the year in a variety of locales. Word on the street is the work can be pretty monotonous, but the pay is good, probably the best you'll find for a short-term job.There are a number of websites with detailed information on this sort of work, but PickNZ is generally accepted as the go-to place for wannabe pickers. 

Location: Farms/orchards/vineyards across the country (see detailed job map here).

Duration: Varies, but most locations have a multi-week minimum commitment. 

Job Type: Harvesting, packing, pruning, inspecting. 

Compensation: Anywhere from $13.75 to $20 NZD/hr (roughly $11-$16 USD/hr). 

How to Apply: Contact a regional representative for assistance.

Tip: Many hostels offer to find work for backpackers staying with them - just search Google!

3. DOC Hut Warden

If you love (and I mean love) the outdoors and don't mind pretty bare-bones accommodation, consider volunteering with the NZ Department of Conservation as a Hut Warden. It's kind of like being a Park Ranger! Sort of. Basically you live in and manage one of the many "huts" (essentially back-country hostels) located along multi-day hiking trails throughout the country. Duties include bookings, giving out weather reports, maintaining the hut and nearby trails, and search and rescue. You'll get to live somewhere gorgeous, meet all kinds of people, do all the hiking you can handle, and even participate in research. This might not be the poshest option on the list (though many of the huts are surprisingly civilized), but it sure is one of the coolest, and if you're considering a career in anything outdoors, it also counts as serious résumé-building. For more info, see individual listings here. 

Location: Regional and National Parks throughout the country (see link above). 

Duration: Varies, but openings increase during the NZ summer months (November-February).
Job Type: Some combination of hospitality, cleaning/maintenance, and outdoor research.
Compensation: Lodging and (usually) basic food.
How to Apply: See individual listings via above link.
Tip: A good command of the English language is generally a requirement.

4. Hobbiton

Yes, Hobbiton is a real place, and yes, you can work there. We took my family to visit, and our tour guide was a 20-something American who really liked Lord of the Rings. 'Nuff said. Obviously this is a more specific option than others on the list (there's only one Hobbiton, after all), so the number of available jobs are fewer. You have to apply at the right time - the U.S. summer is your best bet - and hope there's an opening. But it's a worthy goal for any Tolkien fan/aspirational tour guide.

Location: The Alexander Farm, outside of Matamata in the Waikato region.

Duration: Tours operate year-round, but increase dramatically over the NZ summer.

Job Type: Tour guide, food service (in The Green Dragon!), basic cleaning. 

Compensation: Unsure, probably at/around minimum wage (about $11.50 USD/hr). 

How to Apply: Keep tabs on Jobseeker and Hospotrade, where Hobbiton lists annually. 

Tip: The closer to a full year you're available to work, the more likely you are to get the job.

View of the Mill and The Green Dragon from Party Field in Hobbiton

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5. Ski Fields

The New Zealand winter coincides with summer in the States, so ski field work is particuarly well-suited for college students wanting to travel over summer break. Previous experience is great, but you can also complete an instructor program (or work in a hospitality role). Obviously the job only lasts the winter (June-September/October) so plan accordingly. 

Location: Queenstown, Wanaka, Methven, Lake Tekapo, Mount Cook. 

Duration: Ski season, typically June-September/October.

Job Type: Ski/snowboard instruction, lodge hospitality.

Compensation: Depends on past experience and location. 

How to Apply: For instructor positions, look here and here; for hospitality work, see here and here. 

Tip: If you can take an instructor course in the States before you go, you'll up your salary.

Living in New Zealand Part 1: Before You Go

The world is full of incredible places, and you don't have to come to New Zealand to have an awesome, life-changing, insert-cliché-of-choice overseas experience. But I've written plenty about travel in general over the last three months. Now that Alec and I have had time to get to know the place, I'm going to use the next three to take a deeper look at New Zealand travel specifically. Life in the closest thing Earth has to Middle Earth is pretty great, and if any of you reading this have been following the blog with mild (or extreme) jealousy, I encourage you to consider taking the necessary steps to go on a Kiwi adventure of your own. Over the next few posts, I'm going to attempt to give a comprehensive, roughly chronological overview of everything you need to know to plan and execute a trip to pretty much the coolest country ever.

Of course Hobbiton is a real place. 

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Before You Go...

You will, minimum, need to buy plane tickets and get a visa (and passport if you don't have one). It's also a good idea to form a rough idea of where in the country you want to spend your time, and how. Note that if you want to fly by the seat of your pants, you can just figure all that out once you get here. Either way, I'll take you through the preparation process so you don't have to do all the Google searching Alec and I did before we left.

1. Let's fly, let's fly away. A while back, a Kiwi heard I was from the States and asked me, "Did you fly here?" Winner. Fact is, unless you want to spend tens of thousands of dollars on freight passage, or you happen to have the skills necessary to sail across the Pacific, flying is your only option. You can get direct flights from LA or San Francisco to Auckland or Wellington for $600-$800 one way. Yes, that means the round trip will put you out about $1200-$1400, unless you hit on a deal somewhere (lucky you). To find the best prices, you've got to do the leg work. Some tips:

• Compare as many fares as possible. For flights from CA, look at Air New Zealand and United. 
• If you're departing from elsewhere in the States, try Orbitz and Kayak for combined tickets. 
• Be aware of baggage allowance, because more and more airlines are charging for checked bags. 
• It's typically cheaper to fly in the middle of the week (Monday-Wednesday). 
• Take note of trip duration, because it can vary widely, and trust me, it makes a big difference. 

2. Do you have papers? If you don't have a passport, you should, so get on that. Moving on. US tourists don't need visas to enter New Zealand, but if you want to work in any capacity, you will need what's called the Working Holiday Visa. Read about the details here. Basically, you can apply online for $140 USD, and if you're between 18 and 30 and a US citizen, you'll get the visa. Do this as soon as you have your tickets (not before, since you need to provide travel details on the app). Once you have it, you can stay in the country for up to a year and work anywhere you can get a job.

Ninety Mile Beach, the longest beach in New Zealand and the 4th longest in the world. 

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3. Pick your poison. Both the North and the South Islands of New Zealand are amazing. It's difficult to get from one to the other (you have to fly or take a long, expensive ferry ride), so you'll either need to pick one or switch at some point on your trip (Alec and I are about to head down South for the second half of our time here). The point is, don't expect to hop back and forth a bunch, because the Cook Straight ain't the Long Island Sound if you know what I mean. Here's a basic geographic breakdown to help you decide where to spend your time: 

• The climate is upside down; North = warmer (sub-tropic) and South = colder (temperate). 
• Both have both, but for beaches, think North Island; for mountains, think South Island. 
• The 2 largest cities (Auckland and Wellington) and 7 of the top 10 are on the North Island. 
• Out of over 30,000 square km of National Park land, over 26,000 are on the South Island. 
• Out of the 9 renowned Great Walks, 3 are on the North Island and 6 on the South Island. 

4. Sing for your supper. If you're looking to spend more than a short vacation in New Zealand, and you don't want to spend your life savings (or you don't have life savings), this is a biggie. Once you know where you want to go, you need to decide how you're going to live once you get here. Essentially your options are 1) find a paid job (likely minimum wage or close to it) and figure out living expenses, or 2) find a volunteer position in exchange for food and lodging. I've already written general articles on both (see here and here), but for those who are interesting in coming to New Zealand, my next post will be on a range of Kiwi-specific work opportunities. Check back soon!