Living in New Zealand Part 4: Hitting the Sack

Behold, the promised follow-up article to my last post on getting around New Zealand, which focused on methods of transportation. This time, the spotlight's on places to stay during your travels. Depending on your budget, there is a wide range of options to choose from; in keeping with the travel-on-the-cheap spirit of this blog, I'll stick to reality and steer clear of the 4-star hotel side of things. The good news is:

Hitting the Sack...

On the road (and on a budget) is easier in New Zealand than just about anywhere. This country is insanely welcoming to foreigners and quite accustomed to the young-and-penniless crowd. As such, you can stay just about anywhere for dirt cheap––or even for free! Read on for a list of affordable accommodation options, roughly in order from most to least expensive. Note: all prices in USD, and per person unless otherwise indicated.

1. Airbnb

If you haven't heard of Airbnb, it's high time you do. Essentially an online listing site for folks looking to rent extra space in their homes, it's chock full of relatively inexpensive places to stay for a night, a week, or longer. 

Upsides: Airbnb hosts are by and large incredibly welcoming and helpful. Many of them will cook for you, show you around the area, and more. You'll get lots of amenities (laundry, wifi, breakfast, TV, etc.) at little to no extra cost. Plus it's just nice to stay in an actual house for a change. 

Downsides: You can find some great deals, but they're usually still pricier than other options. Advance booking is generally required. Also, if you can't handle sharing space with strangers, this isn't for you. Then again, traveling cheaply might not be for you either. 

Price Range: Technically $10 and up, but more realistically $30-60 (no charge for an extra person though, so this is a great option if you're traveling with a buddy).  

Our Airbnb host helped us find...

...the one and only Weta Workshop!

SPACE

2. Backpackers

Known as hostels to the rest of the world, Kiwi "backpackers" are affectionately named after their most popular customers. You're probably already familiar with this concept (and if not, I wrote a whole post about them a while back), so I'll skip the details and jump right to the cost.

Price Range: $20-25 for a shared room; $40-50 for private.

3. Holiday Parks

If you haven't heard of Holiday Parks, it's ok, because they're not a thing in America (or pretty much anywhere else other than down under). But they should be, because they're awesome. Basically, they're privately-run campgrounds, with cabins, bunkrooms, tent sites, RV sites, and the like. The facilities vary park by park, but you can generally count on bathrooms, showers, laundry, and a kitchen. Rankers has put together a fantastic database of Holiday Parks and DOC campsites (see below) here. 

Upsides: It's not hard to find great Holiday Parks in beautiful locations, including those too rural for hostels. You usually won't need a tent, since most have hostel-like accommodation in addition to camping. Many offer activities and equipment rentals at reasonable costs. 

Downsides: Quality varies widely from park to park, so it's important to do your research... reviews are your friend. And even the best Holiday Parks are not resorts, so don't expect luxury, because you won't get it. 

Price Range: Around $10-$15/person for a tent site, and progressively more expensive from there.

We found a nice quiet spot for our tent at the beautiful Smiths Farm Holiday Park outside of Picton.

4. DOC Campgrounds/Huts

New Zealand's DOC (Department of Conservation) runs all of the National and Regional Park land, and it takes its job very seriously. Campgrounds are abundant and kept in good condition, plus they cost next to nothing. The interior of many parks also contain "huts" (think backwoods hostel), which are also pretty cheap and often surprisingly nice. Also, see link above to see all sites on a map.

Upsides: If you're into the outdoors, these campsites are set in some of the most spectacular places in the country. They're also generally quiet and secluded.

Downsides: You need a tent, unless you're staying in a hut. Depending on the location and the time of year, they can fill up pretty quickly. Some require advance booking, some suggest it, and others don't pre-book at all, which is kind of annoying. 

Price Range: Free - $12 per night, depending on facilities and location. 

5. CouchSurfing 

CoachSurfing International Inc. is basically the free version of Airbnb, except you (typically) get a couch instead of a bed. It's a membership-only online community of travelers who basically host each other in their homes free of charge, out of the goodness of their hearts. So basically CouchSurfing and Kiwi Land are a match made in heaven. 

Upsides: Other than the free part, this is a great way to meet locals and have an "authentic" cultural experience. Hosts are usually very open and generous people... a friend of mine even got a free plane ride from her CouchSurfing host! 

Downsides: Again, like with Airbnb, if you need personal space, this isn't for you. It's also not ideal for spouses (the whole sleeping on a couch thing). While CouchSurfing takes safety seriously and requires hosts to provide extensive references, there's still a slight risk you'll end up staying with a creep.

Price Range: Free (except cost of food in some cases).  

6. Freedom Camping

Freedom camping is another ubiquitous Kiwi thing that's not exactly encouraged in the States. Back before The Lord of the Rings broadcast the glories of New Zealand to the world, when travelers were more scarce, you could just set up a tent anywhere not marked private property. Alas, times have changed, and as the rules stand now, you can spend the night on any Conservation land that isn't designated otherwise, with a few catches (see below). Since designated areas are in constant flux, your best bet is to find an information centre and ask where you can camp in the area. If you're the outgoing type, you can also knock on doors to ask if you can pitch a tent on someone's private land. 

Upsides: No cost, often very private, and obviously no bookings necessary.

Downsides: No facilities are provided. Due to increasing numbers of freedom campers, more and more areas are being restricted to self-contained vehicles only, meaning you need an RV with its own toilet. Illegal freedom camping is punishable with a hefty fine.

Cost: Free.

Backroads like this one (minus the fences!) are your best bet for successful freedom camping.

Living in New Zealand Part 3: Getting Around

So jobs are great, and money is, well, a necessity. But no one comes to New Zealand just to work. I'm not trying to brag, but this is Middle Earth for crying out loud. We're talking 100,000 square miles of mountains, forests, plains, and rolling hills (30,000 of which are government-protected)... and only 4.5 million people. We're talking 10,000 miles of coastland, 18 peaks over 10,000 feet, a dozen active volcanoes, the most beautiful fjords outside of Norway, and lots and lots of sheep. It's home to some of the best skiing, bungee jumping, rafting, sky diving, surfing, and pretty much every other adrenaline-pumping activity you've ever heard of (and a bunch you haven't). Not to mention the great wine, great beer, and great chocolate. My point is, you don't want to come here and be stuck in one spot and never get to see the place. Luckily for you:

Getting Around...

Is no problem if you know what you're doing. This is a pretty small country, so you really can see a lot in a comparatively short period of time. Like anywhere, you have options, and which ones you choose will depend largely on your budget and length of stay. I've already touched on getting to New Zealand here, so this post will focus exclusively on intra-New Zealand transportation (post on travel lodging to follow soon). 

By Car

The first decision you need to make when it comes to getting around New Zealand is whether or not you want to buy a vehicle. This may sound like a big and potentially risky investment, but consider all the advantages before you write it off:

• First, a car of your own gives you more freedom than any other form of transportation, hands down. And in a country like New Zealand, where many desirable destinations are pretty remote, that's a big plus. This is not the place to fly into a city and just stay there.
• Second, people are buying and selling used cars all the time down here, so you'll 1) have options when you buy, and 2) have buyers when you want to sell. In fact, if you find a good deal, you can even make money on the flip, which means in the end you're only paying for gas. 
• Third, if you buy a big SUV or a van, you can sleep in it while traveling and thus nix the cost of lodging all together. This is locally known as "Freedom Camping," and it's extremely common in New Zealand. Not for the faint of heart. 

My husband next to our "brand new" 1996 Honda CRV (whose name is Shadowfax). 

SPACE

So, should you buy a car? If you'll be in the country longer than a month or so, I'd suggest yes, particularly if you're traveling with a buddy who can split the costs. Compared to the other options, it's cheaper and offers greater flexibility. Plus, you'll get to drive on the wrong side of the road! AND the wrong side of the car! If you decide to go for it, here's the DL:

• To find a vehicle, go to trademe.co.nz, local bidding site and stuff of dreams. Imagine Craig's List and Ebay had a lovechild in New Zealand. That's TradeMe. It's where everybody (even dealers) lists used stuff, including cars. 
• Remember to keep your standards low. You're only gonna own this thing for a matter of months, so who cares if it's a little banged up here and there? Just make sure it has a current Warrant of Fitness (basically an inspection sticker), 'cause you can't drive it without one. 
• After purchasing, be sure to fill out an Acquiring Motor Vehicle form at the Post Office. While there, you can register your vehicle if necessary (piece of cake as long as you have that Warrant of Fitness). More questions? Look here for the answers. 

Note: I do NOT recommend renting a car to anyone planning to stay in the country longer than a few weeks max. Every other option in this list is cheaper, especially if you're under 25. 

By Plane

Somewhat surprisingly, air travel can be one of the least expensive options here in New Zealand. You can commonly find tickets between the 26 different airport cities from $30-60 NZD/$25-$50 USD one-way on grabaseat.co.nz. Yes, it's a great deal, but bear in mind that:

• You can't count on getting a cheap ticket where you want and when you want. So keep your eyes peeled and be willing to plan your trip based on the available destinations. 
• These reduced fares only include a small carry-on, so while they're great for shorter trips, you can't even bring your hiking backpack without paying up for a checked bag. 
• If you fly somewhere, you'll either need to rent a car or figure out other transportation once you get there. Tip: many NZ hostels offer free or cheap airport pickups/drop-offs. 

By Bus

If you decide against buying a car, buses are another intra-New Zealand road travel option. Though they take longer than planes and aren't much cheaper (if at all), they do offer more choices in terms of destinations. In fact, if you are flying somewhere, buses can be a great way to navigate the area once you arrive. Some tips:

• You can buy a pass with one of the major companies (see here and here) that meets your needs and fits your price range, or just go ticket by ticket. 
• Keep an eye out for "specials," as you can save a load of cash; this also applies to various activity, lodging, and meal discounts offered for ticket-holders. 
• Much like hosteling, this can be a great way to meet people, both local and international, many of whom will be young adventurers like yourself. 

By Ferry 

Ok, ok, so ferries aren't really an option for travel in most parts of the country. But they are crucial for one particular trip: the crossing between the North and South Islands. Yes, you can fly, but if you have a vehicle and/or a bunch of luggage, the ferry is your only choice. It's expensive, so if you want to spend time on both islands, plan on making this trip a one-time thing. 

There are only two ferry companies, and the prices/travel times are comparable. Bluebridge is generally considered the nicer of the two, but Interislander has larger ships, meaning it's much slower to sell out. Either way, go ahead and buy your tickets as soon as you can, especially during the busy season (December/January).

The Interislander Ferry making its way up the Tory Channel and back to the North Island.

SPACE

By Train

The final option I'll review here (if you want to walk or cycle, good for you) is train travel. It's not cheap, but using the Scenic Rail Pass is supposed to be one of the most beautiful ways to see the country. Unfortunately, the rail system in New Zealand isn't as developed as in, say, Europe, but with various packages you can combine train/bus/ferry travel and get just about anywhere. As with the bus pass, you'll have to option to add discounted lodging and tours at each destination. Note: train travel is limited between May and September (the New Zealand winter). 

P.S. - Check back soon for a post on where to stay during your travels!