Posters and TV commercials literally advertise New Zealand as "Middle Earth." And I mean literally in the literal sense. Having lived here for the better part of a year, I would humbly suggest they change the slogan to "Middle Earth and More." The simple fact is New Zealand boasts a significantly more varied and spectacular landscape than even the
Lord of the Rings or
Narnia movies portray on screen. See my last post for some fairly detailed
visual proof.
That said, as avid fans of both franchises (we'll forget the black mark that was
The Voyage of the Dawn Treader), my husband and I were blown away by repeated opportunities to step into scenes straight from these films. In fact, for the last 3 months we've been living at Mt. Hutt Retreat, where a big chunk of the
LOTR crew stayed during Edoras filming. Not that I'm bragging or anything. Anyway, before I start in on descriptions of the locations promised in the title, let me offer a few bits of advice for any of you hoping to visit said places yourselves.
- You do not need the Lord of the Rings Locations Guidebook by Ian Brodie. It costs $20+ dollars in the tourist shops, so if you're trying to pinch pennies, you can find most of the same info online (this Department of Conservation webpage was particularly helpful). On the other hand, it's a handy souvenir, so if you really want one, consider buying used on Amazon.
- Most of the LOTR locations listed in the guidebook or elsewhere online aren't really worth your time. Many look quite different without various CGI components, or are completely inaccessible by normal means of transportation, or are fairly unspectacular settings of minor scenes. I won't concern myself with any of those in this post.
- The myriad movie tours advertised all over the place are nearly all HUGE tourist traps. They literally charge hundreds of dollars for access to locations that are perfectly accessible on your own for free (unless you want to shell out for helicopter trips, which are probably pretty cool). Alec and I found that finding the locations ourselves was half the adventure.
Now, on to the good stuff (we'll start on the North Island and work our way down):
1. Cair Paravel (Cathedral Cove, Coromandel Peninsula)
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| Alec and me standing under the transformed "underground tunnel" from Prince Caspian |
Remember that scene from the beginning of Prince Caspian when the four Pevensies are transported from a London underground station to a gorgeous Narnian beach beneath the ruins of Cair Paravel? Well, the magical beach is a real place, complete with clear blue water, white sand, and breathtaking rock formations. Unsurprisingly, Cathedral Cove, as it's known in real life, was a tourist destination long before the Narnia movies. To reach this location, take SH25 up the east side of the Coromandel Peninsula until you see signs for Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove. Keep following signs for Cathedral Cove, which will take you through the small but charming town of Hahei, until it dead-ends at a parking lot. From there, it's about a 30 minute walk to the film location (longer if you take any of the side trails to other beautiful coves along the way). Tip: This is a very popular spot for bus tours, so if you want to avoid the crowds, visit in the early morning (sunrise!) or late evening.
Nearest Town: Hahei
Address: Grange Road South, Hahei 3591
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2. Hobbiton (Alexander Farm, Matamata)
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| The mill and the Green Dragon as seen from Party Field |
Hobbiton is the only entry on this list that isn't free, but for fans of the movies, it's well worth the entrance fee. For $75 NZD (about $65 USD) you get a bus ride to and from the set, an informative tour, plenty of great photo ops, and a complimentary drink (ale, cider, or ginger beer) at the Green Dragon. Tours, which you'll need to
book ahead of time, depart from Rotorua (more expensive) and Matamata, but the best and cheapest option if you have a car is to drive yourself to Shire's Rest Café. From Matamata, drive south on Hinuera Road, take a right on Hopkins Road, another right on Puketutu Road, and then a left on Buckland. You'll see signs along the way for the film location. Once you reach Shire's Rest, you can't miss it.
Tip: If you can avoid it, don't go during the two weeks on either side of Christmas. Due to increased tourist traffic, they run tours every 10 minutes instead of every half hour, which felt a little rushed.
Nearest Town: Matamata
Address: 501 Buckland Road, Matamata 3472
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3. Mordor/Mt. Doom (Tongariro National Park)
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| Mt. Ngauruhoe (Mt. Doom) as seen from the beginning of the Tongariro Crossing |
If I had to pick the most spectacular location on the list, it would probably have to be this one. Tongariro National Park is a singular place, and the Tongariro Crossing is widely considered the best day hike in New Zealand. You will see some truly magnificent volcanic scenery, the description of which would take up far too much space to go into here. The walk itself is fairly demanding, and will take 5-7 hours depending on your fitness level, but it's completely worth it (and if Frodo and Sam could do it, you can too!). You can find info about the route
here, and you'll need to book a shuttle to drive you from the parking lot to the trail head. We used
Mountain Shuttle, which charged $30 for transportation and secure all-day parking.
Tip: Rain and/or heavy mist is common in this area, especially at higher altitudes, so prepare for it no matter what the weather forecast says.
Nearest Town: Turangi
Address: Ketetahi Car Park, off SH46 (6.5k from SH47; 12.5k from SH1)
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4. Hobbit's Hideaway (Mt. Victoria, Wellington)
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| "Get off the road!" |
Of all the film locations on the list, this one is honestly the least spectacular. BUT it's also one of the most accessible, within walking distance from downtown Wellington and a short drive from Weta Workshop, so why not make a day of it? Plus, it's the site of one of
LOTR's more memorable scenes, where Frodo and company hide from a ring wraith under a giant (regrettably CGI) tree. I don't know about you, but it scared the crap out of my 9-year-old self when I first saw it in theaters. To get there, make your way from Wellington to Mt. Victoria via Alexandra Road. The pull-off is a bit tricky to find (helpful maps
here and
here), but once there you'll see the path is well-marked.
Tip: If you have a bit of extra time, walk or drive up to the Mt. Victoria Lookout, with excellent views of the city.
Nearest Town: Mt. Victoria (Wellington)
Address: Hobbit's Hideaway Track, off Alexandra Road, Mt. Victoria 6011
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5. Weta Workshop (Miramar, Wellington)
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| A few samples of hobbit feet, available for your viewing pleasure in the Weta Workshop |
While not a filming location
per se, the
Weta Workshop outside of Wellington is well worth a side trip, and in conjunction with a trip to Mt. Victoria (see above) makes for a pleasant
LOTR-themed day. Entry to the Weta Cave is free; it's essentially a souped-up gift shop, but also includes displays of some pretty cool props and models used in a bunch of films, including
Lord of the Rings and
Narnia. You can also watch a short (20 minutes or so) video of the history of Weta, which is fun, and also free. Most of the souvenirs are pretty pricey, but it's the real deal, so follow your heart. If you're really into this kind of thing, you can pay $20 to go on a 45-minute guided tour through the workshop itself. Booking ahead (see
here) is recommended. To get there, drive east from Wellington on SH1, exit on Cobham Drive, and follow Miramar Ave and Park Road to Weka Street.
Tip: Parking can be hard to find on Weka Street itself, but once you've found the place just park on nearby side street and walk.
Nearest Town: Miramar (Wellington)
Address: 1 Weka Street, Miramar 6022
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6. The Great Battle (Castle Hill/Flock Hill, Canterbury)
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| The impressive rock formations of Castle Hill |
Probably the most epic of all New Zealand
Narnia locations, the Castle Hill area is easy to find and phenomenal to look at. The setting for the battle scene at the end of
The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, it's also one of the most popular climbing/bouldering sites (more info
here) on the South Island. If you're not really into the climbing scene, it's also a great spot for a picnic. The boulders are
very visible from SH 73 between Arthur's Pass and Darfield. There are several parking lots along the road, so just keep your eyes open.
Nearest Town: Darfield (southeast)/Arthur's Pass (northwest)
Address: State Highway 73, Arthur's Pass 7875
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7. Edoras (Mt. Sunday/Mt. Potts Station, Canterbury)
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| The almost comically epic Mt. Sunday, set against the Southern Alps |
The trip to Mt. Sunday, where the LOTR crew built the set for Edoras, capital city of Rohan, was one of my top experiences in New Zealand. The best part? There's nothing there, not a single sign of civilization... it really does feel like Middle Earth. If you want to see the stunning vista for yourself, you can pay a few hundred dollars to take the official tour, or you can drive yourself for free. Up to you (by now you've probably recognized my thinly veiled contempt for overpriced tourist traps). The private owners of the surrounding property have not only posted permission for anyone to walk through to the location, they've gone so far as to build bridges so you don't have to ford several streams on your way up. To access Mt. Sunday, take SH72 to the small town of Mt. Somers. Head northwest on Ashburton Gorge Road, which turns into unpaved (but nicely shingled) Hakatere Potts Road. You'll pass several lakes and eventually follow a river down into the valley, where (assuming you've seen Two Towers) you literally can't miss the film location. There's a convenient parking lot on the left side of the road, and the path up Mt. Sunday is clearly marked. Look for the cairn marking the spot where Eowyn stood during that shot. Tip: There will be some snow visible pretty much any time of year, but for a view even more stunning than the one above, visit when the weather's a bit colder.
Nearest Town: Mt. Somers
Address: Mt. Sunday, Hakatere Potts Road, Ashburton Lakes 7771
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8. Anduin River/The Argonath (Kawerau River/Shotover Gorge)
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| The spectacularly blue Kawerau River running through Shotover Gorge |
Alec and I have joked on numerous occasions about the irony of New Zealand's "scenic drive" signs, since every single drive is scenic, without exception. However, if we had to pick, the road from Fox Glacier Village on the West Coast down to Queenstown probably takes the cake in the most scenic scenic drive competition. The section between Wanaka and Queenstown, the road follows the winding Kawerau river, used in
Lord of the Rings as the Anduin River. Unfortunately, you'll have to imagine the giant CGI statues of kings holding their hands out in warning, but the steep cliffs and
blue water are as real as it gets. If you're the adventurous type (with a little, er, a lot of extra cash), don't stop with the drive; you can
jet boat down the gorge and/or bungy jump at Kiwi classic
AJ Hacket Bungy.
Tip: The many wineries along the road are some of New Zealand's finest, and nearby historic Arrowtown is well worth a visit.
Nearest Town: Arrowtown
Address: SH6 between Cromwell and Frankton
